The Tube

For those who don’t know about Newtyle Quarry it is Scotland’s principle continental style Mixed Crag.

Developed by Scott Muir back in 2003 just at the same time when he ran the first Mountain Equipment competitions at Glasgow Climbing Centre!

Scott bolted and climbed a number of easier lines on the “doorjam” slab at the entrance to the quarry. The “happy hooker” wall was developed in the same year offering technical and steep M7 – M8 climbing but for the real steep stuff you must venture up to the Tube.

The Tube is a dark and damp cave which holds a number of hard mixed routes and a F8b sports climb and a trad E7! The first route to tool up from the depths of the cave was Scott’s “Fast and Furious” at D10+ ! This route has seen a number of repeats over the subsequent years and it is a popular training target of many climbers indeed it was featured in the Hot Aches short film “Fools With Tools” which told the story of a group of Edinburgh climbers who had decided to take on the challenge of Fast and Furious.

“Team Tube” headed up to the tube on the Sunday following the Glenmore lodge Competition and did some work on F & F while being inspired watching Greg Boswell and Mike Tweedley working on the extension “Too Fast Too Furious” which continues all the way out of the cave onto the headwall!

A day in the tube at Newtyle can be a lonely and frustrating place but when you get along with a group of people, who can give entusiastic beta from the floor, the atmosphere is great and encourages you to put in a shift on the route!

Best effort from “Team STS” has to be Scott Grosdanoff who got onto the route for the first time and made a great effort all the way up to the hidden hold on the overlap! This takes some effort!

You can find a topo for Newtyle Quarry here on Scottishclimbs

“Training for Winter Climbing” – Part Two

Designing a Training Programme

Before we get to the actual exercises it is worth taking a few minutes to sit down and think through what you are training for and identify the specific energy systems you are looking to train. Pay attention to the concept of specificity when doing this and also the types of energy systems, you anticipate using in your activity, as described earlier. When putting together your training programme it might be worth considering building in a foundation period, especially if you are new to training. This will give your body time to adapt to the training process and also allow you to work on ‘good form’ – basically using good technique when lifting/pulling etc. It might be worth giving yourself a couple of weeks doing this foundation before you start really pushing things. If you are used to training or are very fit then you might choose to drop straight into your training programme.

If in doubt though check out what you plan on doing with a health/fitness professional. Potentially you can do a lot of damage to yourself if you go about this process incorrectly.

Exercises

With these exercises you will have to work out which ones are specific to what you are training for, then adjust the reps (see under ENERGY SYSTEMS) according to what energy system you are training.

ARMS and SHOULDERS

There are a variety of methods using ice tools, wooden handles or knotted rope. You can use bungees or a stool/chair to reduce the load you are pulling :

Pull ups

Focus on good technique and avoid dropping down onto over extended arms

Lock Offs

At full lock; 90 degrees and 120 degrees – Hold for 2-6 seconds

Power Pulls

Similar to doing your pull ups but focus on pulling up as fast as you can.

Typewriters

Use a fairly wide grip. Pull up and travel from side to side, touching your chin on each hand.

Ball on Wall

Using a weighted ball bounce it off a wall repetitively using a straight-arm/wrist flick action to throw then catch the ball. Works your wrists and forearms. Good exercise for developing power in your wrist flick.

Triceps extensions on ball (this also works your lower core). This complements the above exercise as the tricep extension uses muscles associated with swinging your tools. Remember to add the wrist flick at the end of your tricep extension.

LEGS

Squats – superb exercise but you do need to be shown how to do squats by a strength and conditioning coach. Great for both working your lower legs and your lower core.

Calf Raises

ABDOMINAL EXERCISES.

Knee Raises

Make harder as you improve.

Stage 1: with legs bent and knees to chest.

Stage 2: with legs straighter and out in front.

Stage 3: with legs straighter, out in front and then alternating from side to side.

Front levers

Keep arms straight and lift your entire body out in front of you so it is completely straight and horizontal. Bending one leg makes this slightly easier.

Go for 3 – 4 attempts at 2 – 4 seconds.

 

 

 

 

ANTAGONIST TRAINING

These exercise are good to help balance the mainly pulling actions climbers tend to train.

Press – ups are king here and you can vary them by doing them either just on the floor (classic) or use a physio ball or medicine ball to press up on.

Alternative: Bench Press

SUMMARY

These exercises are only a small selection of what is possible. You can adapt the above principles to use on campus boards or bouldering walls and use your ice tools. Remember the more it looks and feels like the climbing you are going to do the more transferable any fitness gains will be to your activity.

I’ve included the masters of my own training programme. I would not use my values i.e. loads and reps as the start point – you will need to work out your own. What they will do is give you an idea of how to structure a programme and individualise it for yourself. Training ideas and concepts are continually evolving so it’s worth just hunting on the internet for any other ideas that may be worth trying out.

Whatever ideas you adopt and however you structure your training regime keep in mind the following key training principles as they will help you stay both motivated and healthy:

• Warm up and cool down
• Vary your climbing and training
• Personalise your training
• Train specifically
• Increase your volume appropriately
• Have a long term view regarding your training gains
• Take time off
• Develop a recovery instinct

 

SAMPLE TRAINING PROGRAMME WARNING!!!

YOU MUST WORK OUT YOUR OWN VALUES OR RISK INJURYING YOURSELF!

If in doubt seek the advice of a suitably qualified coach.

Download SAMPLE TRAINING PROGRAMME

 

About George McEwan:

George has been climbing and mountaineering for over twenty years. In that time he has put up numerous first ascents both in the UK, Europe and Nepal.

He has climbed mostly in the French Alps around Mount Blanc, both summer and winter. Also climbed in New Zealand Alps. Expedition to Langtang Valley, Nepal 1st ascent of the North Ridge North face Naya Kanga 1989. Second British Expedition to Tien Shan for attempt on South Face of Khan Tengri 1993. 1999 trip to Alaska to attempt Nettle – Quirk route on Mt Huntington, then West Ridge of Mt Hunter.

In the past few years his climbing has focussed primarily on waterfall ice climbing, with this passion taking him to Canada, Colorado, France, Italy, Austria and Switzerland.

His professional career has spanned fourteen years during which he has worked for Outward Bound, and for the past ten years with Scotland’s premier National Outdoor Training Glenmore Lodge where he currently works as a Senior Instructor.

Although actively involved in all forms of climbing from bouldering through to ice climbing, George’s primary passion is steep water ice.

 

NB: Illustration credit Mike Clelland – Climbing Magazine

“Training for Winter Climbing” – Part One

 

George McEwan MIC should require no introduction within the Scottish winter climbing fraternity. The STS2010 Veteran Male Champion has kindly produced this detailed article on Training for Winter.

We have split the article into two and will publish the 2nd half very soon but for the moment get your teeth into the first instalment below:

 

 

 

 

 

Training for Winter

I would guess that at some time or another we have all uttered the words “Oh I need to get fitter for winter climbing” which has then briefly sparked a flurry of increased activity, possibly in the gym or climbing wall, which has then gradually tailed off as life, work/family commitments and anything else that appears to be more urgent than “getting fitter” demands our limited spare time.

There is no doubt about it, training to develop your winter climbing fitness such that you make real and measurable gains does demand commitment, a selfish streak as you prioritise your training schedule over other demands and very clear focussed outcomes. Ironically when I had a real job (as an engineer) I had more time and space to train. Now that I work in the outdoors my working life is pretty much dictated by ‘the programme’ and working on the hill which means my spare time can be erratic and when I do have some spare time I might be a bit bombed from being on the hill the past X days. So to accommodate training I’ve made my programme very flexible and I guess realistic. I’m not in the position, nor do I have the desire to become some climbing powerhouse. However I do want too stay climbing fit when the opportunities to climb come along, such as climbing trips or to prepare for the coming winter season.

This short article is less of a how to and more of what you can do. It’s aim is to give you a very brief overview of the background physiology that informs how we train and to describe some dry tooling/steep ice/mixed climbing specific training exercises that can be done either at your local gym, climbing wall, or in your house.

Why Train?

So why should we train for winter? Some typical reasons are listed below:

• to improve performance i.e. climb harder.
• greater enjoyment of activity
• reduce risk of injury
• increased safety margin
• develop confidence in physical abilities

What Can We Train?

The diagram below shows the three main energy systems we can train.

Anaerobic (Alactic) is commonly know as POWER – this where we use brief use of max strength dynamically e.g. pulling up with your ice tools over an overhang, or going for a tool placement just out of full reach where you have to dyno for the hold.

Aneaerobic Lactic Acid System is also know as POWER ENDURANCE – this is where you have repeated use of high strength e.g. pulling through a steep or overhanging section of terrain where you have to make several powerful moves one after the other.

Aerobic Oxygen system is also know as LOCAL ENDURANCE – this is long term use of moderate strength e.g. your average mid grade winter pitch.

One system not shown in the above chart is General Endurance. This is your body’s cardiovascular abilities. Assuming you are a regular hill goer then chances are you already have a good level of cardiovascular fitness. Activities such as running, biking, swimming etc all help develop this system. If you cando hundreds of pull-ups and crank it out on the wall to your hearts content, but as you walk into the climb on the hill your legs feel like lead, your lungs are bursting and your body appears to have sprung multiple leaks then you might want to consider developing this type of fitness!

I’m going to focus on the three main energy systems POWER, POWER ENDURANCE and LOCAL ENDURANCE that are perhaps more appropriate for dry tooling/mixed climbing/steep ice climbing.

Before we start to look at specific exercises and repetitions etc it’s worth just running through what principles are involved in developing a good training programme.

• GOALS – set yourself goals. Ideally both outcome and process based i.e. outcome = increase ability to do pull ups by 50% within 3 months; process = develop my ability to do pull ups such that they are more controlled and rhythmic.

• SPECIFICITY – in order for your training to transfer directly to your climbing then the exercises you use should ideally be specific to your climbing. E.g. doing underhand pull ups will make you better at doing underhand pull ups but think about when you pull up on your tools what position your hands are in. To make pull ups more specific to climbing you might want to consider using ice tools to pull up.

• STRUCTURE – you will get best results if your training plan is structured such that exercises target specific muscle groups in a progressive way.

• PERIODISATION – is about breaking down your training/climbing time into manageable chunks of specified activity. In simple terms this would be pre-season, active season (i.e. out and about climbing), and off season. This model is too simple for the climbing world so you will need planning depending on specific goals.

Training Specific Energy Systems Specifically!

Most of the exercises I’ll illustrate latter can all be used to train the different energy systems, question is how we do that? It helps to understand how the three main energy systems – POWER, POWER ENDURANCE and LOCAL ENDURANCE – work in practice.

To move ourselves up a winter climb we use a variety of movements involving pulling and pushing. All this upward movement requires intramuscular co-ordination. This process involves various muscle groups have to contracting or relaxing to maintain a constant force as we make a move. To do this we use energy to facilitate this process. Andenosine triphosphate (ATP) is one of the main energy compounds muscles rely on in the contraction process, not necessarily to contract the muscle fibres but rather to reset the contracted fibre to a relaxed state.

Your muscles can manufacture more ATP from stored glycogen aerobically (i.e. with oxygen) or anaerobically (without oxygen). Aerobic metabolism is the most efficient way of burning stored glycogen but it needs a steady oxygen supply hence a steady blood flow. If we constrict this blood flow by contracting our muscles and contract them enough that the capillaries providing that flow of oxygenated blood are shut, then the cells in your muscles can only manufacture ATP anaerobically. This anaerobic process is not as efficient and leaves lactic acid as a by product. That’s the ‘pumped’ or ‘burning’ muscle feeling many of us will be familiar with. If the muscles keep consuming ATP until lactic acid stalls the energy restoration i.e. allow oxygenated blood to flush out the lactic acid, then you are trapped in a vicious circle. The many contracted fibres can’t relax without ATP and ATP can’t be produced until blood circulates. Blood can’t flow into the muscle because so many fibres are contracted. This is why a well trained capillary network delivers oxygen and removes lactic acid more efficiently than untrained ones and why well trained climbers can shake of a pump quicker than say a novice climber with a comparatively less well trained capillary network.

The diagram above illustrates the importance of maximum strength as this dictates how much force we can exert. Maximum strength relies on muscles having good maximum recruitment i.e. what % of the muscle fibres are involved in a contraction. Power is maximum strength used dynamically and relies on good muscle maximum recruitment as well, whilst power endurance is sustained use of around 60 -80% of maximum strength.

How do you work out your maximum strength?

So how do you work out your maximum strength? One way (after a thorough warm up!) is to start with a high load and see if you can lift/pull/push it comfortably for one repetition. This is known as your repetition maximum. For example to work out my RPM for doing pull-ups I would attach a weight to my climbing harness and do a pull up. If I can do that then I would add another heavier weight and so on until I get to a point where I can only do 1 pull up comfortably. For me my RPM doing pull ups is – my body weight (85kg) plus 30kg – 115kg. You would do this for your core pushing or pulling exercises.

What energy system do you use when?

To put the above into a climbing context maximum strength would be used for controlled, slow movements or static lock offs (perhaps using 90 – 100% of your max). Power would be use of maximum strength but in a dynamic, fast manner. These two energy systems whilst commonly used on the crux moves of hard mixed or dry tooling type climbs would tend to be used rarely if ever on your average steep ice climb.

Power endurance on the other hand is used often on the short sharp cruxes of trad mixed routes or short sharp cruxes on harder ice climbs e.g. pulling through some overhangs dynamically. Here you would typically be using 30 – 80% of your maximum strength. Typically you will find you run out of energy rather than getting pumped when training this energy system. Movements in this type of training are dynamic.

Local endurance (or Stamina) is perhaps the most commonly used energy system on typically steep ice or trad mixed climbs. This is where you are making a series of continuous moves using around 20 – 50% of your maximum. On such climbs you will find that you will have to shake out periodically to de-pump, allow the capillaries to open up and flush the lactic acid out of your muscles. Movements in this type of training are rhythmic.

How close you work to your maximum in the ratios given above is going to depend on how well trained your muscles are. For example someone new to training and working their local endurance might start of at 20% of their maximum strength, whilst someone who has been training for a longer period might be working closer to 80%.

I talked earlier about intramuscular co-ordination. If you remember this term describes the different muscles we use to maintain a constant force as we make a move such that we make the move fluidly. An essential component of this process is the smaller muscles that adjust and steer the forces exerted by the larger muscles. Poor intramuscular co-ordination is a factor in climbers developing injuries or injuring themselves whilst climbing. When training it is worth taking into account this factor and use exercises that work these smaller muscles e.g. rather than weight machines use loose weights or boulder using axes on a training board etc.

TRAINING NORMS

% shown are based on your repetition max or RPM – this is the heaviest load you can lift/push for one repetition.

STRENGTH

Loading is high (90 – 100% of RPM);

Reps are low (1 – 7);

movements are slow (think lock off type moves here)

POWER

Loading is high (90 – 100% of RPM)

Reps are low (1-7)

Movements are dynamic.

POWER ENDURANCE

Loading 30 – 80% of RPM;

7 –12 Reps;

Movements are dynamic

LOCAL ENDURANCE/STAMINA

Loading 20 – 50%;

Reps are high (20 – 30+)

Movements rhythmic

Physical Training Principles

Training Volume

Any improvements and regressions are based on a balance of work (catabolic) and ‘rest’ (anabolic), this is known as Training Volume. There are four components of Training Volume:

• F – Frequency: how often you do it.
• I – Intensity: how hard you work at it.
• T –Time: how long you spend doing it.
• T –Type: what energy system are you training.
• A –Adherence: are you sticking to your programme.

So before throwing yourself at the nearest pull up bar or stack of loose weights it’s worth designing a basic programme that is focussed at what you want to achieve in the timescale you have available. This might mean looking at your year or season, setting yourself goals then breaking down that timeframe into smaller chunks so you can work at specific energy systems. This should allow you time to bring it all together in time to appreciate and see your new found training advantages put to use on your climbs.

Specificity It is worth stressing the concept of specificity – that is making your training both mirror the type of movements you will be making in your winter climbing and also training the appropriate energy systems. Simply put there is no point in training power for your upper body and arms i.e. your ability to dynamically lift your whole body weight over several moves if you are planning on climbing long Grade IV routes on Ben Nevis. In this example you would probably benefit more from training your lower body e.g leg muscles and cardiovascular than your ability to do power pulls on your ice tools.

Part Two Looks at Designing a Training Programme !

The 2010/2011 International Ice Circuit

Film Review – The Pinnacle

The first edition of Ken Wilson’s Cold Climbs was first published back in 1983. The book had a significant influence on British climbers and the routes featured on Ben Nevis became the most sought after on the mountain for the next 20 years. Cold Climbs has long been accepted as an essential on any winter climber’s shelf and, having watched a preview of the new film The Pinnacle from Hot Aches Productions, I firmly believe it a must for every winter climber’s DVD collection.

The film documents the ‘super week of climbing’ by Robin Smith and Jimmy Marshall and follows Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner as they pay tribute to the original feat by repeating the routes 50 years on, last February.

The film is a documentary with Jimmy Marshall taking the starring role recounting his “super week” on the Ben with Robin Smith, 50 years on. The film documents each daily climb with both words from Jimmy and footage of Andy and Dave’s modern day ascents. It is noted that, for the original ascents, Marshall and Smith would have been using step-cutting techniques and very basic protection compared to the modern equipment available today. Dave and Andy spend time trying step cutting on some ice near the CIC and found it difficult and exhausting.

The film uses, to great effect, historical images along with stunning footage of the Ben from last winter. The music works well and the mix takes you between the footage on the mountain and the dialogue from Jimmy in his front room, without feeling like you have moved. Additional dialogue from many Ben Nevis aficionados sets the scene and tells more of the story of the original climbs, and also documents the style and background of the individuals involved. The footage is fantastic with climbing detail and irresistible scenery which belies the fact that such a small camera team were involved on the hill. The team were very lucky with the weather during the week with the Ben putting on its own show for the camera and, although there is the classic spindrift pouring down Point Five, I got the impression that the ease of Dave and Andy’s climbing made the original feat seem somehow less challenging than I know it to have been. The whole team involved with this project have a great result in this DVD. The challenge for this team in terms of production, let alone climbing, was no mean feat.

This is not a film with big falls, screams and technical climbing! It’s a film about a story of climbing on Ben Nevis by two incredible individuals who inspired, and continue to inspire, generations of climbers today

The routes that Marshall and Smith climbed are all classics and were cutting edge in isolation at the time of their ascent, but the likes of Pigott’s Route and The Great Chimney receive few ascents each year. With the climbs like Point 5 and Smith’s having queues on them on good weather days, I’m sure this film will open people’s eyes to these great alternatives just as Cold Climbs did in the past and become a must have DVD.

The extras on the DVD are also excellent – including the full Jimmy Marshall interview and the Q&A from the Fort William Mountain Festival. If you’re looking for the technical climbing and falls, there is also the short film from Dave MacLeod and Jo French climbing Don’t Die of Ignorance XI on the Comb Buttress.

World Premiere
The premiere of ‘The Pinnacle’ will be on Friday 19th Novemeber 2010 at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival. Director Paul Diffley and climbers Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner will be there to introduce and take questions.
See the Kendal Film Festival Website for details.

Pre-Order Your DVD

Order your DVD copy now for dispatch first class on 22nd November 2010 on the hot Aches website.

Routesetter’s Review – Schmoolz D10

It’s often too easy to knock something new, especially if you’ve never tried it before. That’s certainly the view that I first took when my Schmoolz arrived through the post!

That view changed quickly once I got to our indoor wall here at the Lodge. I had envisaged having to change holds around and set up routes specific for these tools but I was surprised just how adaptable they proved to be. They worked not only on the larger positive bolt-on holds but even on some of the smaller wall features .

Schmoolz are no replacement for the specific training that using ice axes gives with regards to pick placements – they do have their limitations. You will never be able to perform all the moves that you can with real axes such as torqueing and placing picks i.e. whacking them into a material, nor can you use the super thin holds that your pick can balance and bite into.

What they are good for is allowing you to use body movement techniques and work the specific big muscle groups used in dry tooling. Some of the problems that we have been setting on the Lodge indoor wall have been at either end of the spectrum – big bomber hold stamina sessions down to thin, tenuous, balancy test pieces. Whatever problems we have set have allowed us to still experience that full on body pump!

Safety wise the Schmoolz have proven to be an adaptable addition to indoor climbing and mixed climbing specific training. Having used them at a couple of walls now the safety issues are easy to manage compared with the dilemmas faced with using and dropping sharp, pointy real axes.

These axes have now been used by a number of climbers in the Aviemore area. Some have never mixed / ice climbed or dry tooled before whilst others have years worth of experience. All have enjoyed trying out the Schmoolz and see real potential and enjoyment in their use both for learning and preparing for climbing this winter.

Mark Chadwick

MIC

Glenmore Lodge Instructor

AMI

As part of Schmoolz support of the Scottish Tooling Series each competitor is entitled to a discount of 17% off a pair of Schmoolz.

Inspirational Reading

Flicking through guide books in October and November is a nervous tick of the eager winter climber almost as evident as a daily pilgrimage to the MWIS website to take a look at the weather outlook.

Here are a few of our recommendations to get you inspired and fit for this winter season:

Guidebooks

Ben Nevis: Rock and Ice Climbs (Scottish Mountaineering Club Climber’s Guide)

The Cairngorms: Scottish Mountaineering Club Climbers’ Guide)

Guidebooks from the SMC are a great starting point for any pre-season flicking!

Cold Climbs: Great Snow and Ice Climbs of the British Isles

This is a must have for every winter climbers book shelf!

Training and Technique -

Ice and Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series) -

This book from the master of ice Will Gadd , this is a comprehensive guide to a sport experiencing a renaissance. It is a complete instruction guide to ice and mixed climbing.

Indoor Climbing: Skills for Climbing Wall Users and Instructors

Dry tooling has also begun to find a niche in the repertoire of many climbing centres. Having the right equipment and knowing the basic techniques for a successful session are essential, and this book will tell you all you need to do so.

Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing

This is a must for anyone serious about mixed climbing. The first ascent of octopussy in Vail, Colorado way ahead of it’s time fig fours on straight axes!

9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes: Navigation Through the Maze of Advice for the Self-coached Climber

Not Strictly a Dry-tooling training book but fantastic insight into mistakes made in all types of climbing.

From our Speakers:

Ben Nevis: Britain’s Highest Mountain

Simon Richardson spoke at our third round event. If you didn’t make it you can buy the book here!

Psychovertical

Andy Kirkpatrick is Speaking at our Ice factor event on the 13th of November buy tickets online or buy the book here!

Winter Climbing+ (Rockfax Climbing Guide)

Ian Parnell is our final guest at EICA Ratho on the 27th. His collaboration with Neil Gresham is a instructional which is also an inspirational flick though book due to the fantastic full-colour photographs.

Let us know your own winter climbing books by commenting below:

Kev Shields Interview

(first published prior to STS2010 Round 2) Glenmore lodge competition:

The daring solo rock climber Kev Shields is a guest at Glenmore Lodge, as part of the 2010 STS series. He will be competing and giving a lecture about his amazing career of climbing with only one hand.

By Fiona Russell

Kev Shields credits climbing as “life changing”. “If I hadn’t found climbing then I hate to imagine what my life would be like now,” he confesses. “I don’t think I would have had direction, confidence, so many friends. I just feel very lucky to have found something that means so much to me.”

While this story could be the same for many young men growing up in some of the more deprived areas of Scotland, for Kev there were other poignant reasons for finding a focus.

Born in Ayrshire with most of his left hand missing and then faced with the added difficulties of epilepsy in his early 20s, Kev confesses that he could become “quite an angry young man”.

“As I grew up and into my teens I became increasingly frustrated. I had to overcome hurdles that other people didn’t have and I guess I did become quite angry about this,” he says.

“I found that when I was climbing I didn’t get angry. I don’t get angry about having one hand as I just focus on what I have to do to make the next move or to be as good as I can be.

“Looking back I can see that I might have ended up drinking and getting into fights in my home town of Dalry.

“But, for me, climbing changed all this. I’ve been given the chance for a much better life.”

Kev, now 31, has become one of today’s most accomplished UK climbers. Despite facing the difficulties of a missing left hand he has shocked the climbing world with some daring and inspirational ascents.

His first love is solo traditional rock climbs and his most notable achievement to date is soloing E7, Firestone, a bold ascent on Hells Lum Crag in the Cairngorms.

At the time, he said: “I reached through by the skin of my teeth to the finishing hold and literally ran the last few metres. It was just the best I’ve felt in years.”

Currently, his outdoors addiction is an E8 in the Mournes, in Northern Ireland. “I love soloing and I love scary climbs. The more daring the better,” Kev says. “When I first soloed an E3 I thought that would be the limit of my ability and ambitions but I didn’t want to stop there. I wanted to find harder climbs and I’ve proved that I can climb some of the hardest routes on UK rock.”

Kev was also 34^th out of 85 men in the Ice Climbing World Cup in 2007, a remarkable achievement given his disability.

He climbs with a specially designed prosthetic attached to his fusions, which means he is able to use an axe, but he is still at a major disadvantage, for example not being able to swap hands on his axes.

The World Cup Commission were suitably impressed by his performance and awarded him a medal.

This weekend, the climber will be testing his skills at the Scottish Dry Tooling Series, which takes place at Glenmore Lodge, near Aviemore.

A leading competitor in previous series, Kev is looking forward to the “fast and furious” competition.

“Dry tooling is a tough discipline and requires a lot of strength, ability and talent,” he says. “This is true for everyone as the use of ice axes and boots on indoors walls is arduous.”

While Kev tries not to think of himself as at a disadvantage with only one hand he does admit that the climbing can be “frustrating”.

He says: “My prosthetic is great and I feel privileged to have it but this means that I am unable, like others, to swap the axes between hands.

“The prosthetic can also be quite painful at times and it can be pretty unwieldy.

“I have to rely a lot on body tension, balance and strength and sometimes it’s case of lunging for a sweetspot on the wall with my axe.

“It is sometimes frustrating to see how much easier it could be with two working arms but there is nothing I can do about it and I don’t dwell on it.

“In any case I have shown over the years that I am capable of achieving so much and sometimes more than other climbers. I maybe just have to try a bit harder.”

Kev, who works part-time as sales assistant at Nevis Sport in Fort William, puts his success down to having “a bit of a gift” and “deep mental motivation”.

He says: “When I first started climbing I discovered something that could totally focus my attention. I couldn’t think of anything else but the climbing and I loved this.

“I also love the fact that to get to some of the climbs you need to walk for miles through stunning and remote countryside. Climbing takes you to amazing places.

“Then when I’m concentrating on a climb I find myself zoning in and being encompassed by this very deep feeling of focus.

“For me it’s a mental drive that keeps me climbing – and the physical achievement. When I complete a climb I feel so amazing.”

The climber was the star of the award-winning film, Single Handed, made by Hot Aches Productions.

The film, which won Best Climbing Film at the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival, revealed some of Kev’s daring and inspirational ascents, culminating in a gripping attempt to solo E6 in Glen Nevis.

Kev credits his dad, a friend of his dad and the top climber Scott Muir, who is also taking part in the STS, for his love of climbing.

He says: “My dad is a joiner and from a young age he had me using hammers and tools and so I think these helped to build up my muscles.

“He also took me hillwalking and introduced me to one of his friends. This lead to a climb on Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe.

“ My whole life changed that day in the sense that climbing became possible.”

But it was top UK climber Scott Muir who has become his greatest influence.

Kev says: “I was fortunate enough to meet Scott and he took me under his wing and showed me the ropes. He has now become a friend and climbing partner.

“These days I also climb with Dave MacLeod, who is a huge inspiration.”

Kev adds: “I’ve gone from a boring life in Dalry, and one that could have been potentially dead-end, to a fantastic life climbing across the world.

“It has given me confidence, focus, a way to earn some money and a brilliant group of friends and climbing companions.

“I feel very lucky that I have got this dream life.”

Tony Stott: Our oldest competitor

Tony Stott was in his late fifties when he first ventured on to a dry tooling wall.

A 40-year veteran of outdoors ice climbing, the retired Shell consultant decided that it was “time to try something different”.

Today, the 63-year-old confesses to being “rather taken” by his new-found sport.

For the second year in a row, Stott, of Carrbridge, will be the oldest competitor in the STS series.

Stott says: “For decades I’d mentally separated ice and rock climbing. Ice climbing was my ultimate sport and every winter I was out climbing as often as I could.

“But everyone talked about rock climbing and told me I was missing a real treat.

“Eventually, a few years ago, I thought I should give it a go.”

Stott was first introduced to dry tooling at his local climbing wall Extreme Dream in Aviemore.

He says: “Extreme Dream had set up a dedicated dry tooling wall and I thought I’d just give it a try. And I immediately liked the discipline.

“Dry tooling has the same kind of pressures and requirement for precision as ice climbing, just in a different environment.

“It’s obviously also a lot more convenient to visit an indoor wall than to head out into the mountains.”

When Stott, who climbs Grade V on ice, then heard about the STS he decided to “give it a go”.

He says: “I was intrigued by the competition and I wanted to see how I’d do. It didn’t bother me that I would be the oldest in the series, I just liked the idea of testing myself.”

Last year, Stott was surprised to find himself sixth overall in the over-40s category.

“I had no expectations, just to give it my best,” he says. “I really liked the style of competition and I was delighted with my placing overall. You have to remember I was competing against some men almost 20 years my junior!”

This year, despite undergoing a hernia operation just two months ago, Stott is again competing in the STS.

He will join the series at Glenmore Lodge and says he is “really looking forward to getting back on the wall”.

He adds: “Because of the operation I’ve not been able to do much fitness at all. I’ve had to be really strict with my diet to keep my weight to a reasonable level and so I do not have any expectations for the STS.

“I am recovering well and in recent weeks I’ve been able to run again but really I’m just going to give the competition a go.

“I know that taking part in the competition will help me to get back in shape for climbing on ice later in the year.

“And it will be good to see all the other climbers in action.”

The Lockdown

Another postcard from Malcolm Kent

woowoo… get some, urrr… get some, a green jeep comes screaming into the airport pickup area on 2 wheels with 3 torso’s hanging wildly out of the windows. The brakes go on hard and the truck skids to a halt smack in front of my piece of curb. The guys have arrived. Two of them fresh off a plane within the past 24 hours and all mad psyched. I high-five the waving hands, throw the duffles in and jump onboard as we floor it out of the airport and straight into town. I’m excited to be in New Mexico. I haven’t climbed here before and my buddies are punching out a packed schedule that sounds right up my street. That is except for the drinking. After a week of beer consumption in Colorado and Utah, I’m feeling the need for a detox. But I’ve come to the wrong place with the wrong crowd for any kind of Mormonised teetotalism.

After a couple of beers we start with the dry tool training on what can only be described as the beast wall in Marc’s backyard. By beast I mean it’s tall enough that leading and tope roping is obligatory only to be substituted with a fall of certain paralysis. And after the friendly competition gets going no one’s falling off anything. It’s not until Marc annihilates a homemade stein pull that we finally decide to cool off and head indoors. That and the fact that it was 11 o’clock at night, pitch black and we were keeping the neighbours up.

Next day and we’re off to the Block, or Bloc? I never did quite get the verbage. Anyway back to reason for coming here. The Block is a dry tooling crag north of Albuquerque developed over the last few years by Marc Beverly and co. And never one to shy away from exploring new dry tooling crags I shouldered a pack and muttered ‘give errrr, let’s get involved’. Although I was quite happy to work my way through on sighting the easier routes at the crag, I was really only there for one reason. To try and on sight my first M12 route. I had been on sighting and flashing routes up to M10+ in training recently and saw an opportunity to leap forward to a new level. So after the foreplay of the vertical routes it was time to hit the big time and the route called Lock Down.

Given M12 by Marc and spanner (Justin Spain), after taking a season to red point with heel spurs you might be thinking, Malc what on earth were you thinking trying to climb it first crack with no spurs. I was beginning to think similar thoughts. By this time the 4 or 5 servings of Jaegermeister and Redbull were starting to turn my stomach and spin my head. But you’ve always gotta have a crack at the on sight right?! So I duly pulled on and had a crack. Just one clip from the chains and I was getting a little bit keen. Things were looking better than expected. Then I fumbled the awkward quick draw and started to feel distinctly drunk. Two more moves and I was wasted. Just 3 moves from the top I failed. Oh c%&k! I’ve just blown a rare throw at the money shot. As I get my breath back on the ground, my excuses are met with the age old dismissal and bantery that only friends can offer. I love you guys, you’re the best.

Anyways, having the opportunity to train on M12 terrain this early in the season outside is brilliant for guy like me that lives in a country with no outdoor climbing at all. And with that warm fuzzy pep talk I retired for the evening with a can of Negro Modelo. For the rest of my time in New Mexico I went back to the mainstream action of rock climbing. We packed in some time on the top of the Sandia’s at a newly developed area called the Pump House. Why? Because it’s next to a sewage pumping station that has a leaky outflow pipe that runs over the top of crag. Imagine the consequences for a second. Then we took a road trip south into no man’s land to climb at some really fun places hidden deep in alien territory.

You see New Mexico is famous for two things in my head. Nuclear weapons testing and alien encounters (remember Transformers and X-Files). I really wanted to see something come down from the sky, fire out a laser and suck something up. But it didn’t happen. We just saw lots of satellite dishes on train tracks. Marc told myself and Gordon that the reason there were so many fat cows in the fields was because aliens were abducting them, doing tests and on them and then sending them back to earth. As we debated the pro’s and con’s of why aliens suck you up by the chest rather than offering a friendly flotation device, I realised that every little town we were driving through smelt really strongly of marijuana. Hmmmm.

So all in all a super fun trip to the states and some early season dry tool training with really great friends. As for the M12 on sighting, the book isn’t closed just yet. There look to be a couple more opportunities coming up in the near future for me to settle my score with the grade. And this time it’ll be Powerade shots not Jaeger.