Scottish Tooling Series Competition Rules
1 – EQUIPMENT
2 – CLIMBING – GENERAL AND HEATS
3 – SCORING
4 – CRAMPONS
5 – CLIMBING – FINALS
6 – MISCELLANEOUS
1 – EQUIPMENT
I. Tools must be standard length (up to a maximum of 65cm) and leashless.
II. Adze and hammer sections must be removed or covered to prevent injury. Sharp points and ferrules should be taped.
III. Helmets must be worn when near the climbing area, when belaying and when on a route.
IV. Eye protection must be worn when climbing. This can be either safety glasses, goggles or a visored helmet. Eye protection is recommended when belaying. The removal / dropping of eye protection when climbing is to be avoided if at all possible and continuation of the attempt without eye protection in place is at the discretion of the competitor and is entirely at their own risk.
V. Gloves should be worn when climbing.
VI. Routes are set and graded for the use of standard rock climbing shoes.
Competitors can choose to use one of the following types of footwear:
1. Rock Shoes
2. Stiff Soled Mountain Boots , rated by the manufacturer at 4 seasons or B2 as a minimum
3. Competition specific ‘Fruit Boots’ with Crampons removed.
Competitors will also need stiff soled mountain boots, rated by the manufacturer at 4 seasons or B2 as a minimum, for use on certain routes internal ice routes and external routes, along with appropriate crampons (see section 4 below).
(Check event pages for details of any ice routes or outdoor routes)
Participants wearing unsuitable footwear will be asked to change them or may be asked to stop climbing and take no further part in the event.
VII. Junior competitors must abide by the rules laid down by the individual venues as regards footwear and the use of holds for the feet.
VIII. Indoor axes such as D10’s and Fig 4’s must only be held on the shaft below the head rivet. Fingers may not be touching the head loop.
2 – CLIMBING – GENERAL AND HEATS
I. The responsibility for ensuring safe belaying and tying on remains with the competitors and a ‘buddy’ system of checking should be adopted.
II. Tying on to a harness must only be done with either a figure of eight rewoven with a half a double fisherman’s stopper knot or a bowline and half a double fisherman’s stopper knot.
III. Any belay device used must be designed for belaying and operated according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
IV. Appropriately qualified umpires, floor-walkers and wall staff will stop any belayer from belaying if they feel that it is being carried out in an unsafe manner.
V. The swapping of axes by using the shoulder-stack method when un-roped bouldering is not permitted for safety reasons.
VI. An attempt begins when both tools are on the starting hold and the competitor’s body has left the ground. Shuffling is allowed; stepping up and down with both feet is not.
VII. Sit starts must be done with all of the climber’s weight off the ground on the lowest hold with axes matched.
VIII. No hands are to be used on holds or features during the heats, only axes are to be placed.
IX. Feet can only be placed on marked holds, flat on the wall or on features detailed as being permissible in the route description.
X. Logs must be hit or hooked as detailed in the route description. They are not to be hit above the tape line and the suspension ropes/tapes are not to be hooked.
XI. Tyres may be hooked and stood in. They are not to be hooked above the tape line and the suspension ropes/tapes are not to be hooked.
XII. Chains and rings must be hooked below the tape lines. The suspension ropes/tapes are not to be hooked.
XIII. Ladders must only have the rungs hooked and not the side vertical members or wire. They are not to be hooked above the tape line and the suspension ropes/tapes are not to be hooked.
XIV. Only holds that are backed or appropriately marked are to be used for axe and foot placements.
XV. Axes are not to be placed on any hold without backing.
XVI. Axes are not to be placed into bolt holes on holds.
XVII. Axes must not be stacked (hooked over each other), in any manner.
XVIII. Hands must not be placed on the head of an axe to aid ascent when climbing or for resting purposes.
XIX. Axes must not be stood upon whilst climbing, or used for any type of foot rest.
XX. If the rope is weighted during an attempt due to a slip or fall, the climber must be lowered to the ground and that is the end of that attempt.
XXI. If a climber is given a tight rope during an ascent, that is the end of all scoring attempts on that route.
XXII. If a belayer is found to be providing a tight rope, either wilfully or not, they will be deducted ten (10) points from their overall competition score.
XXIII. A dropped axe cannot be handed to the climber by another person. If an axe is dropped and it cannot be retrieved by the climber, that is the end of the attempt.
XXIV. If a hold or feature breaks or spins during an attempt, the climber may lower to the ground with no penalty. The hold/feature will be replaced with the nearest possible physical alternative, and the climber may start their attempt once more.
XXV. Axes must be matched in control on the final hold to successfully finish an attempt.
XXVI. An attempt ends when both tools are held in control on the finishing hold, the competitor falls, a non-permitted hold is used with axe or feet or the rope is weighted.
3 – SCORING
I. Three attempts at each route are allowed. Reaching the finishing hold on the first attempt gains 10 points, on the second attempt 7 points, on the third attempt 5 points.
II. On selected routes, intermediate scores of C, B and A exist. If the top has not been reached by the climber at the end of their three attempts, they may enter the value of the highest hold reached. These values will be marked at appropriate points on the route. These intermediate scores will then be taken into account when the overall competition score is calculated.
III. The values of the intermediate scores are: A=4 points, B= 3 points, C=2 points.
IV. Correct use of the score card is the responsibility of the individual competitor. Their full name and category must be entered in the appropriate places, and all scores must be entered legibly and honestly. The event officials take no responsibility for misreading score cards whose details are illegible or difficult to decipher.
V. Once a competitor has completed all of their attempts, they must hand their score sheet to an event official. No responsibility will be taken by event officials if score sheets are not handed in; in this case, no overall score will be entered in to the final event result.
VI. The total individual score will be calculated by the nominated event officials. However, it is the responsibility of the individual competitor to ensure that this score has been correctly totalled prior to the results being announced, and they should double-check their own score sheet after the official total has been calculated and before the results are announced. Although every care will be taken by event officials to ensure that the score is correctly calculated, it is the responsibility of the individual to check that they are satisfied that the calculation has been correctly made.
VII. At the point of announcing the final competition result, all available results stand. Competitors who have not taken note of points lV, V, and Vl above and not checked their score or made representations to the event officials have no further recourse to change the announced result.
4 – CRAMPONS
I. For venues where crampons/fruit boots are used, the responsibility for the safety of the climber and belayer lays with the competitors. In particular, the safety of the belayer when holding a fall or lowering must be carefully considered.
II. If a belayer is unlikely to be able to hold the weight of a climber without being pulled substantially forwards and up, they must either use a ground anchor, if available, or another person must belay.
III. Mono or twin points may be used as appropriate, the use of heel spurs is not allowed.
5 – CLIMBING – FINALS
I. The inclusion of a final is at the discretion of the relevant venue, as is the number of competitors taking part.
II. An isolation zone will be utilised at all venues during the finals.
III. Allowing competitors to inspect the final route prior to isolation is at the discretion of the event venue. Hands may be used on holds reachable from the ground; no axes are to be placed and the competitor’s feet must not leave the ground. Inspection outside of the allotted time is not permitted.
IV. The climbing order will be the reverse of the points scoring order of the heats. If there is a tie in these scores, the order will by the choice of the competitors or by random selection.
V. Should a competitor be unable to take part in the final for whatever reason, they will be seen to have withdrawn and those scoring the next highest points will move up to take their place. Thus, in a 3-person final, should the 2nd placed competitor withdraw, the 3rd placed competitor moves up to 2nd, the 4th placed competitor moves up to 3rd and competes in the final, and the withdrawn competitor moves to 4th.
VI. All junior finals will be bottom-roped.
VII. If the adult/senior final is on a lead route, all quick-draws must be clipped before the climber is in a position of having to down-climb to reach them.
VIII. The use of hands on finals routes is at the discretion of the individual venues.
IX. It is up to the hosting venue to supply an appropriately experienced belayer.
X. If a competitor believes that they have been impeded by the actions of the belayer, such as having the rope too tight when attempting to make a clip, they can appeal to the event umpire. If the appeal is upheld the competitor can start the attempt again from the ground after a maximum 4 minute rest. If it is not upheld their attempt has finished. Any such appeal must be made immediately upon the incident occurring.
XI. One attempt is allowed. The attempt finishes when both tools are held in control on the finishing hold, an off-route hold is used, a quick-draw is not clipped, any other infringement occurs or the competitor falls.
XII. The ranking will be based on the height reached on the finals route. The international system of the last clipped quick-draw and the number of the hold (e.g. fifteenth hold from the bottom between quick draw No.5 and No.6 gives 5,15 height result) will be used.
XIII. In the case of the same height being gained by two or more competitors, either: a/ the score gained by the competitors during the heats will be brought in and used to determine the eventual overall winner or: b/ a super-final route will be set and the competitors will go head to head on this. The use of either method is at the discretion of the event venue and competition umpire.
XIV. In the case of a draw in a super-final, a count-back of heats scores will be carried out.
XV. In the event of a draw after a final, super-final and count-back, the competitors will be allotted a joint placing.
XVI. For events that include a final, prizes will only be given for finals results and not heats results.
6 – MISCELLANEOUS
I. The categories are usually as follows:
Junior Male – up to 17 years
Junior Female – up to 17 years
Adult Male – 17 to 40 years
Adult Female – 17 to 40 years
Senior Male – 40 years plus
Senior Female – 40 years plus
However, the requirements of the specific venue, time available and decision of the senior competition umpire may alter the above categories.
II. The disclaimer held by the event organiser / venue must have been read, understood and signed. It must be signed by a parent or legal guardian when relating to competitors under the age of 18.
III. Practising moves or placing axes on holds when not climbing within the competition time-slot is not permitted. Prior to the start of the competition time-slot, competitors are able to view the routes and touch the holds with their hands but their feet must not leave the ground.
IV. If a hold should spin, break or another piece of apparatus malfunction during an ascent, the climber should be lowered off and the problem reported to the event staff. That attempt will not count and the climber may re-take that attempt. In the heats this will be at a time at the climber’s discretion. During the final it will be after the fault has been remedied plus a maximum of 4 minutes extra rest time.
V. In the case of a technical incident caused by the breaking of a hold/apparatus, every effort will be made to supply a hold/apparatus of similar size and properties to the one that it replaces. If this is not possible, the route-setter will replace the hold/apparatus with an alternative and their decision as to what style this shall be will be final.
VI. In the case of a technical incident cause by equipment being used by the competitor, such as a loose axe pick, helmet issues, boot problems etc, the competitor may continue to climb if it is safe to do so or, if they have to finish that attempt, it will count as one of their three attempts on that route.
VII. Foul or abusive language and unsporting behaviour from competitors, belayers or others will not be tolerated and those who have been warned and persist will be asked to leave the event.
VIII. The monopolisation of routes is not allowed. If a climber needs a long time to rest following an attempt and their belayer is not going to climb, the pair must surrender the rope to the next competitors in line. The original pair may then tie back on once the second pair has completed their attempt/s.
IX. In the event of a decision meaning that a competitor is unable to continue climbing due to an infraction of the rules or other reason otherwise controllable by the competitor, no refund will be made of entry fees paid.
X. Any appeal must be made at the time of complaint to the nominated event umpire.
XI. Appropriate changes to any of the above rules may be made by the event venue after discussion with the umpire.
XII. All competitors taking part in the event do so in the understanding that no organiser or staff member involved in the event are liable for any loss, damage or personal injury, however sustained, and the individual competitor is aware of the potentially dangerous nature of drytooling.
XIII. The decision of the event organisers, staff and event umpires is final.
Pete Hill Sept 2011.